10 mars, 2006
THE FRENCH CONNECTION
Lesley Chesterman, Gourmet Magazine « Affordable Montreal », March 2006.
For something lively but less extravagant, Le Club Chasse et Pêche in a unlikely location near tourist-laden Place Jacques Cartier, is one of the most talked-about new restaurant in town. If the idea of a huntimg-and-fishing club sounds stuffy (its a tongue-in-cheek reference to the décor inherited from the previous restaurant, Le Fadeau), chef Claude Pelletier and maître d Hubert Marsolais have created something quite the opposite, with flawless cooking, an innovative and affordable wine list, a laid-back environment, and a genuinely pleasant wait-staff. Pelletier, another pioneer of nouvelle-Quebecois cooking, revels in dishes such as guinea hen with Port compote, and roasted deer haunch served with crushed Jerusalem artichokes. His newfangled surf and turf features lobster tail paired not with seared filet mignon but with braised suckling pig or Kobe beef.