26 mars, 2006
The Globe and Mail, Saturday, March 25, 2006
“Foodies are also flocking to le Club Chasse et Pêche for its excellent kitchen, specifically its play on surf’n’turf. We have some trouble getting over with the décor, which is dominated by a hunting and fishing theme (the restaurant’s logo of fish leaping from antlers is everywhere in the dark, dour rooms), but everything is more than all right when the food comes.
While not dazzingly inventive like Toqué, Le Club is rock-solid and très luxe. The lobster bisque topped with coconut milk foam is long on flavour and short on cream. The lasagne of braised quail with caramelized onions and cheddar is full-bodied in taste, yet somehow light. The kitchen brown scallops till the sweet little critters crunch, but mysteriously keeps the insides barely cooked. They are topped with silken fennel purée and lemon confit.
Snowy cod undergoes the same browning as the scallops. Roasted Quebec duck is red and juicy, and served with its own foie gras, also perfectly rare. Bison is shredded à la pulled pork, and set in a fragile tart with a topping of oven-dried tomato, caramelized baby onions and barely melted raclette cheese.
Even Le Club’s desserts are clever: Apple compote is served inside a cooked apple shell, wearing a crème brulée hat. Tart of pine nuts and creamy caramel is what should have happened years ago to pecan pie, and adding rock salt to its accompanying vanilla ice cream builds very entertaining taste and texture counterpoint. Vive le Québec gastronomique!”